A new life in Costa Rica

Sharing our journey from the U.S. to the Osa region of Costa Rica


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Serenity Gardens Eco Village…what does it mean to us?

Serenity Gardens Eco Village.  An environmentally friendly old folks home?  A chemical free cemetery?  A fictional community in an old Seinfeld episode? (“Serenity Now!”)  All good guesses, but none correct.

SGEV is a remarkable debt free community in the southern Pacific region of Costa Rica, far away from the hustle, bustle and unmitigated lies of the U.S.  (What lies?  Great time for a Kool-Aid break!)

It is a place where folks can enjoy the stunning beauty of this corner of the world while growing healthy, nourishing food for the table.

Fresh produce from our homestead

Fresh produce from our homestead

Not interested in tending a garden?  SGEV is a place where arranging for home delivery of fresh fruits, veggies and healthy meals is as easy as pie.

It is a place where residents don’t need to discuss the many problems with “modern food”, because we all get it.

SGEV is a community where the air is clean, the water is pure, and the jungle sounds are perpetual.

Cool, clean water runs through the community

Cool, clean river water runs through the community

It is a place where Ticos (Costa Ricans) and gringos work together to make this a great place to live, whether repairing the road, improving the school, or simply going to each other’s fiestas.

It is a place where the community roads are quite literally lined with fruit trees, herbs and medicinal plants.

It is where the local school is a short, beautiful walk down the road.

At SGEV, you can enjoy beautiful rivers and waterfalls that by all rights should require an admission ticket, but don’t.

River fun!

River fun!

It is a place where the days year round are warm (~80°F) and the nights comfortably cool (~64°F), making heating and cooling systems unnecessary.

Where safety is a way of life, and everyone on the mountain watches out for everyone else.

It is a place where awesome deep sea fishing trips are just an hour’s drive away.

Pacific fishing

Pacific fishing

It is a place where when it rains during the rainy season, it really rains!  (Let’s just say we thought we’d seen rain before moving here.)

It is a place where everyone at local parties is expected to dance.  Trinidad Ticos love to dance!

It is where beautiful, uncrowded beaches are just 45 minutes down the mountain.

Chilling at Playa Dominicalito

Chilling at Playa Dominicalito

SGEV is a place where people take care of others in need, whether gringo or Tico.

It is a place where internet speeds beat what we had in the states, routinely testing out at over 2 Mbps.

It is a place where a very strong, local credit union offers 10% interest on a 1 year CD in colones.  (And the banker apologized for the historically low rate.)

It is a place where you can be a Christian, with no apology.

And that’s a snapshot of what Serenity Gardens Eco Village is to our family.  Simply put…it is our home.

Morning at our homestead

Morning at our homestead


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That incredible “Can Do” Tico spirit

After living here in the southern Pacific mountains of Costa Rica for 6 months, many things have impressed me with the country, the area, and the people. But nothing has impressed me more than the remarkable “can do” attitude of most Ticos.

Though I have many experiences to draw from, a recent New Year’s Day event sums up the Tico spirit nicely. We had packed up the Jeep for a multi day trip to the coastal resort town of Jaco (pronounced ha-CO) and headed out for the 2.5 hour drive. But on our way down the mountain, we realized the Jeep was seriously overheating. With the temperature gauge in the red, we pulled into a gas station to fill up and check out the problem. After adding additional water and coolant, we saw most of the liquid appear on the pavement…a serious leak somewhere.

It being New Year’s Day, the gas station attendant told me we’d likely have no luck finding a mechanic to help, and I suspected the same. All car rental locations nearby were closed as well, so were in a bit of a jam. We called our buddy Randy Madrigal to ask about getting a ride back to our house, and planned to cancel our trip. It turned out Randy was out of town himself, but he offered to call his mechanic friend on our behalf.

Michael Mora, the mechanic from Cortes, agreed to come and check out our problem to see if there was anything he could do. After looking around under the Jeep and under the hood, he identified a worn hose that was leaking coolant as quickly as it was added. Given the location of the hose, it looked like it would probably require a trip to the shop the following day. But while we checked into options for a ride home, Michael figured a way to access the hose with the tools he had.

Michael Mora repairing my 2006 diesel Jeep Liberty on New Year's Day.

Michael Mora repairing my 2006 diesel Jeep Liberty on New Year’s Day.

Now in need of a replacement hose and with everything closed for the day, Michael called his friend Alex who owns an auto parts business. Alex had the needed hose, and Michael was off to pick up the part. A few minutes later he was back under the hood of the Jeep replacing the hose. We added water to the vehicle, then started her up. The leak was solved and everything looked good. I asked Michael how much for the part and for his time, considering it was the one vacation day he had. “Sesenta”, he replied…sixty dollars. We happily paid Michael, and were soon on our way to Jaco…just a little later than planned.

I couldn’t help but think that in most situations, we would have been out of luck that day. But as we’ve seen over and over again since moving here, the average Tico doesn’t accept why something CANNOT be done. Instead, they concentrate on how it can be done. And fortunately for us on New Year’s Day, Michael Mora found a way to get it done. Pura vida!


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Observations of a gringo

Costa Rica.

Beautiful, peaceful country.  Friendly people.  Incredible natural resources (both food and water).  No military (never bombed anyone, never will!).  Crime rates that, even in the largest cities, are FAR below what you’d find in an average U.S. city.  Real freedoms that now exist only in the history books of countries that claim to be free.  These are a few of the reasons we chose to move to this amazing republic.  Not on our list…a terrific place for gringos to hang out!

Since we’ve moved here, we’ve had the opportunity to meet many Ticos who grew up in this area and have called it home for their entire lives.  Despite our limited Spanish, we’ve made friendships that we now cherish.  We are slowly learning what it means to be Costa Rican, by seeing on a daily basis how kind and helpful so many Ticos are.  When you are in need, they are there with an offer to help.  Randy, Jimmy, Aldemar, Alexis, Carlos, Alonso, Marilyn, Alex and many others.  When we moved here, local families greeted us with fresh fruits from their gardens.  It is not uncommon for a store owner or artist to tell you afterward that you now have a friend in them…just let them know if you are ever in need.

To be part of this amazing country and its people is what we chose for ourselves.  Our residency will be finalized this week and we couldn’t be more proud.  We love the old school values of neighbors helping neighbors, expecting nothing in return except friendship.  Genuine acts of kindness are the norm here, not something you must turn to Facebook to read about.  I could provide many examples, but you get the idea.

Randy Madrigal, helping out a fellow Tico

Randy Madrigal, helping out a fellow Tico

Given the beautiful nature of Costa Rica and her people, why do so many expats choose to simply relocate their American lives to a location with better scenery?  Why do so many decide that learning Spanish really isn’t necessary?  Is that consistent with the opinion they held of “Spanish only” speaking folks back home?  Why are the parties typically with other gringos, and maybe a few Ticos who speak good English?  This certainly isn’t everyone who moves here from the states, but it seems to be far too many.

If you do choose to move to this amazing country, might I suggest doing so with a plan to learn what the people and the culture are about.  First and foremost, have a plan to learn the language.  It won’t be easy and it won’t happen overnight (believe me!), but chart yourself a course to learn it over time.  You can make no greater statement about your adoption of Costa Rica, and your rewards will be…unlimited.

Pura vida!


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Pura what?

“Pura vida!” That’s the phrase you hear from Ticos, many times a day. So what does it really mean? Well I’m NO expert, having lived in Costa Rica for less than two months, but I can tell you what it now means to me.

In a nutshell, “pura vida” is about enjoying life…now. Today. Don’t worry about what isn’t…celebrate what is instead. You’re living and breathing now, whether some particular situation is or isn’t exactly what you hoped. So why not celebrate life? After all, it SO beats the alternative.

Sunrise at Serenity Gardens Eco Village

Sunrise at Serenity Gardens Eco Village


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Moved, and ready for school!

The past 6 weeks have been very interesting for the Hinsons, to say the least! We made the huge move from North Carolina to our new home in Costa Rica (moved in on July 4th), tackled our residency paperwork, and received our shipment of household items sent ahead of time…including my Jeep. We’ve explored the local towns and markets, and discovered a few of our favorite restaurants along the way.

Fortunately we didn’t need to research school options for our 6 year old son Toby, since we’d long since figured that out. He would attend a terrific private bilingual school at the bottom of the mountain. About 45 minutes drive each way, but well worth it we thought. It was important for Toby to be around other kids from the states, to feel more at home during this big transition in his life. After doing our homework during previous visits, at least THIS aspect of our new life here was settled.

But when we arrived, the message from everyone was consistent. Do you really want to drive up and down that mountain road each day, especially during the rainy season? Do you really think it best for Toby to be around non-local kids? And the cost. What about the money spent for the tuition, not to mention for diesel fuel and wear & tear on the Jeep? These were the points we heard from everyone (Ticos and gringos alike), but we stuck to our guns on this. After all, we’d researched it and made our decision, so down the mountain Toby would go. It was best.

Then early one morning before Toby woke up, Jill and I had a chance to reopen the discussion and consider all the advice that we’d received. Not long into the talk, we realized that we what we were planning was a big mistake. It would be better for Toby to be with local “neighborhood” kids than with American kids, for so many reasons. Instead of his classmates living down the mountain, wouldn’t it be better for his friends to be just up or down the street. The fact that everyone at the school would only speak Spanish was, in fact, a huge positive. At 6 years old, picking up the country’s language should be relatively easy…if he has no choice. If he must learn the language in order to play with his friends, then he’ll learn it quickly we were told.

[As an aside…if you plan to move to a foreign country, please make plans to learn the language. Not just a few words and phrases to use during daily life, but actually chart a course to speak the language. First, it is a very basic courtesy to those who live here. Second, your appreciation of the country and culture will rise exponentially when you can converse with those in the country that you’ve adopted.]

Regarding the time we would spend driving Toby up and down the mountain (~3 hours per day), couldn’t that time be much better spent learning Spanish, starting a business, or simply enjoying the area and the people? And taking that further, what better statement could we make about our commitment to this mountaintop community? Telling our Tico neighbors that our son would attend the same local school as their kids was important. In North Carolina, our family was known for our involvement in the local community, from the Ruritan Club to the food pantry that we ran at our church. Did we really want to start a new tradition of community dis-involvement here?

So, the decision was reopened that morning, and the terrific advice from our local friends was heeded. Toby would attend Escuela La Trinidad, about 5 minutes drive down the road. We asked one of our friends if he could put us in touch with the teacher, and that’s when we learned that the current school session had started that day! We went to the school by ourselves and struggled to get information and ask about enrolling. The school year here runs from January to December, so Toby would be jumping in to the first grade mid-year. We provided all of Toby’s records that we’d brought and the teacher (maestro) told us he would inquire and get back to us soon with an answer. We took a local friend with us on the next visit, and he graciously provided translation services for us. The maestro told us that he’d checked with the school system, and Toby was approved to start the next day! After receiving a list of school supplies and uniform requirements, we headed out shopping.

On Toby’s first day of school, he couldn’t have been any more excited. He was up at the crack of dawn, dressed and ready to go. For a kid heading to a new school in a new country where his language wasn’t spoken, his unbridled enthusiasm was something special. We drove him to the school and dropped him off, and he was the happiest kid you’ve ever seen. Picking him up later that day, Toby was still beaming as he retold the events of the school day…to the best of his English speaking ability. The next morning, he was up and ready to go again.

Toby-school

Some very cool things have occurred since our son started school at Trinidad. First, each time the local workers have seen Toby dressed in the public school uniform, they’ve absolutely beamed. Compliments pour forth. Also, after a week or so at the school, one of Toby’s classmates handed us a big bag of beautiful (and delicious!) red beans grown by his family. Red beans are an important local crop, so this was a very special house warming gift. A week later, the same young amigo brought us a big bag of corn, bananas, squash, pejibaye fruit and an avocado…all from his family’s harvest, and all delicious. These gifts of food filled our bellies and warmed our hearts, and made us feel more welcome than any words…English or Spanish.

Did we make the right choice about Toby’s school? The answer appears to be a resounding yes. Not only does Toby love going each day, but he is being thoroughly challenged by the curriculum…and that’s saying something with Toby. He loves his teacher, Maestro Rudy, as well as the rest of the staff at the school. Combine that with the powerful social benefits of attending the local escuela, and I can most assuredly say…we’re glad we were wrong!


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Serenity Gardens Eco Village…soon to be our new home

What is Serenity Gardens Eco Village (SGEV), and what made us decide to call it home?  Interestingly, it all began July 4th, 2013 when we visited the Festival for the Eno in Durham, NC.  Strolling among tents showcasing goods, causes & services, I was intrigued by one that advertised a pair of dreamy sounding communities in the southern Pacific region of Costa Rica.  Lynn Shaw, who’d already bought property at SGEV, was answering questions for interested parties…and I was interested.

What sounded so special?  First, she described a pair of communities, Osa Mountain Village and Serenity Gardens, where sustainability of food, water and energy was an actual plan, not a sound bite like in so many places.  There was a heavy emphasis on growing LOTS of healthy food at both locations, and healthy food is a big focus for our family.  The fact that all those great fruits and veggies can be grown year round in Costa Rica made it even more intriguing.  We grow many of our own foods in North Carolina, but the idea of a 12 month growing season was incredible.  Clean water would come down off the mountain and feed the homes, and renewable energy in the form of solar and hydroelectric were readily available.  Tilapia and shrimp ponds fed by mountain stream water would provide a great local source of protein, and frequent offshore fishing trips would be another.

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Next, the climate Lynn described in the southern Pacific mountains of Costa Rica sounded almost perfect…warm days in the low 80’s and cool nights in the upper 50’s.  A July-Oct rainy season results in a drought free environment, and year round green. 

Homes are constructed without heating OR cooling systems.  Let that sink in for a moment…no heating or cooling units needed.  Consider the huge energy savings when you subtract heating and cooling costs.  At Serenity’s 2,500+ foot elevations, a fan and a few blankets are all that’s required for comfort. 

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Costs, though not cheap, sounded very reasonable by U.S. standards.  With ~1 acre lots at SGEV listed at $47,000 (now $49,000), and good quality construction estimated at $55/sq ft, a nice compact home could be completed for around $100,000. 

The peaceful nature of the country also appealed to us.  Costa Rica dissolved their military back in the 1940’s and haven’t dropped a bomb on anyone since.  They have good relations with their neighbors and their list of enemies is VERY short.

The energy grid of the country is about 94% renewable…primarily hydroelectric, with solar and wind contributing the rest.  Nuclear power plants and coal fired generators are absent, as is the resultant waste.  Literacy rates of 96% are proof of a strong educational system, and good quality health care is very affordable.  Complete monthly coverage for a family runs well under $100.

All this considered, one of the most significant drawing cards of the southern Pacific part of the country is the stunning beauty of the region.  Magnificent, sweeping beauty.  Jurassic Park beauty.  Add to that the incredible abundance of plants, animals, & birds living there, and you have a near dream tropical location.

We’d heard enough.  It was time for me to get on a plane.


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Moving our stuff to paradise

How does someone up and move to Costa Rica?  We get that question quite a bit, so I’ll address one big part of it here…shipping your stuff.

We tapped Great Sunrise Enterprises in CR for our residency and relocation needs, and owner Kevin McNamee was our point person.  We hired a crew to pack the shipping container, but all other arrangements were made through GSE.  Kevin’s made everything as easy as possible up to now, and he gets our highest recommendation.

The day before the 40′ shipping container was set to arrive, the packing crew began boxing items up and readying everything for shipment.  Around noon yesterday, the truck and shipping container arrived and parked at the street.  Our packing crew was Pack & Go Moving out of Sanford, NC, and owner Vernon Jones led an efficient team of 3 guys.  For the next few hours it was like watching giant ants, with box after box getting moved onto our trailer then into the shipping container.  We opted to take our fridge, stove and washer/dryer, so those also went into the ocean bound crate.

After our household items were loaded, attention shifted to my Jeep Liberty CRD.  A Durham towing company took the point on this project and deftly transferred my diesel baby into the container.  With the vehicle securely strapped, battery disconnected and fuel tank near empty (fires onboard the ship are bad), the doors to the container were closed and a bolt seal was locked in place.  The truck pulled away around 5pm, and that’s the last we’ll see of that stuff for about a month.

The packing guys joined me for a well deserved cold beer, and that’s when I learned the Pack & Go crew has some sick musical skills, and member Brandon Maynor (white t-shirt) is one heck of a singer!  I have never seen so many women on a guy’s Facebook page…the dude will be famous one day.

On arrival in Costa Rica, our possessions will be checked against our packing list by a customs agent and duty will be determined.  Once the bill is paid, our household items get loaded into a truck and delivered to our new home in the southern Pacific mountains.  Part of what will arrive…our new wood fired hot tub!  (When did you say you want to visit?)

The Jeep Liberty will be made street legal for Costa Rica…part of the services provided by Kevin McNamee’s GSE crew.  Once declared “road ready”, she can be picked up in the capital city of San Jose.

For the next month, we’re living light with mini fridge, hot plate, microwave and gas grill, and we’ll tap our neighbor for the occasional load of laundry.  A temporary hassle, but a small price to pay for paradise!

 

Loading the trailer    Pack & Go Moving crewLoading the Jeep    DSC_0142Perfect fit!    Closing her up.Bolt seal lock applied    Safe travels!Pura vida!

 


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A brief background on our upcoming move to Costa Rica

Sitting here Memorial Day weekend 2014, this is a good time to reflect on what led us to decide to pick up our belongings and move to Costa Rica.  In a nutshell, we have grown more and more dissatisfied with the direction the U.S. is heading, and we’ve simultaneously discovered a beautiful, inviting country just to the south that is calling our name.

We don’t feel the need to lay out our complaints about the U.S. here, since many folks are more than happy with what has happened over the past 10-15 years.  And to borrow from Pharrell, if you’re happy, we want you to stay that way!  That’s what we’re shooting for, after all.

Costa Rica offers our family a remarkable opportunity to focus on the things that have become so important to us…real freedom, healthy diet, friendly people, and a beautiful, scenic country.  The past few months have laid the ground work for our big move, and the coming weeks will see our preparations ramp up to full speed.

What do I hope to accomplish with this blog?  I’d like to share the process of moving to a new country with our friends and family, and keep everyone posted on the progress.  Check back weekly, as I’ll have regular updates.

Thanks everyone.  I’m happy to have you along for ride!

Todd Hinson

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